17/08/07 Ennerdale Bridge to Barrowdale

While John and Sharon enjoyed a full breakfast (the best idea! start out with lots of energy and a full tummy) I had 1L coffee. Today went as expected, until it didn't. But that's the joy/pain of trekking. A little headache form the second pint last night was small price to pay for the comradre. Coffee and granola and I'm off walking by 0830. First it was road work to the edge of Ennerdale Water, then a lakeside path with goregeous views. If day 1 was Hitchcock, then this was Errol Flynn and Basil Rathbone! Good surface and fast pace. At the eastern end of the lake were 3 choices - alternate low, official, or hi. I first chose the official/hi to offer the hi option, but chickened out as I observed the clouds bumping into the hills. I maybe shouldn't have.

From EW to Black Sail Youth Hostel is a straight forward forrest road walk, and not much to tell. Black Sail is tremendous! Nearly at the head of River Liza (which feeds EW), it sits alone with unobstructed views. Would be an excellent place from which to base a couple of days walks and meet the hikers passing by. Louk, our Netherland friend, was a man set free - after his first day he sent on his pack and walked with only a raincoat and mapcase. And he walked FAST. At BSYH I snacked and chatted with a British couple who then shared a bread and cheese/cucumber sandwich. Kind, yes, but also that much less for them to carry. Then I started over the pass to Borrowdale and here is where it all went downhill. No, uphill. No, traverse. Ah, back across again and finally up and over as I lost the trail and made my own trying to join one I THOUHT I saw before I backtracked and got help. I added up to 4 miles of HARD walking to get where I should have been 2 hours previously. I also twisted my left ankle moderately in the process. Finally over the top of Grey Knot, I caught up with John and Sharon for the long, hard, treacherous track downhill to Slate Mine Visitor Center, where we also caught the Chaneys.

Footsore at this point, even the road walking into Barrowdale was painful. We passed through Seatoller and very nearly the Gillercombe Campsite en route Rostwaite. In fact we were slowly climbing a high stile when I looked over and saw the campsite - and Louk! He'd been here an hour, was all set up and brewing boullion. John and Sharon and I pitched near him, and gratefully accepted hot water for tea/coffee. I fixed backpacker's lasagna as I just couldn't do the 10 minute walk to Rosthwaite to look for pub and food. Cheaper that way as well, what with the extra pint last night, the 5L to camp and 50P for a shower (WELL worth it). I planned to nosh another power bar, shower and then sleep. Planned on 14 miles, probably did closer to 16 or 18.

Beautiful stonework in the wall at Black Sail Hostel.
My benifactors at BSH
Quite a difference walking here.

#1 Temperature: Been 55 at night running to 65 in the day. Makes walking feasible and fun. It takes a nice brisk walk to stay warm.

#2 Trails are not so much trails in the US sense with markers and arrows and such, but rather paths in a general direction which seem to cross everywhere! As long as you know where you are heading you just walk the path pointing nearest to it!

Louk just poked his head in - he cannot charge his camera battery and so is out of luck tomorrow. Double A's working nicely, thanks, and I can buy them at any village store. Speaking of what works.... so far I have been unable to obtain Denatured alcohol, known here as metholated spirits, so my stove is out of comission. Louk and John have kindly donated hot water, and I suspect a pub would too for a nominal fee. The Tent is OK, but, being single walled, somewhat condensation prone in cool weather. As Jeff B noted, it'd be nice to have the tent and foot print on the outside of the pack for quick set up and drier take-down. need to get the z-rest sleeping pad inside somehow. Sleeping bag is cool-cold. Definately could use the silk liner, especially when it's windy, as tent 'breathes' and the moving air sucks the warmth out of the bag. Eye-patch and ear plugs mandatory, so maybe a dedicated (loud) mini-alarm? Haven't needed a flashlight, yet, nor medical kit (may tape ankle tomorrow). Have worn 1 pr smart sox, 1 pr u/w (will change tonight, thanks, after a really hot 50p shower), zip off pants w/ legs, T-shirt and LS thermal shirt. Hiking I vary the T-shirt, LS shirt and Frogg Togg top. At night I add fleece vest. So far thats been ok. Hat is good, sunglasses not necessary (yet). Rain gear top has been in/out a lot and the top compartment location works well. Croc's are a little too big, so they're not great for long walking but OH SO COMFY at day' end. Thermo mug holds TP nickely on the trail and has helped transfer the hot water.
We had a very nice evening conversation. John and Sharon brought back a bottle of wine (and described their lamb shank dinner!).

John, Sharon and Louk!