Glacier Park
7/18/08 Two Medicine CG Glacier Park, MT
Slept better and longer than anticipated. 50degrees and no banging, no cars. Was up and out by 0800, stopping by the Ranger station for information before the end run to the south of the park. East Glacier is a small town, lots of Indian references, and a beaut of an old style lodge. Rt 2 less dramatic than expected from maps.google, but a pleasant, scenic high speed transit to West Glacier. Not much there either, just a motel, convenience store and train station. Re entering the park you are at a low (3000') elevation, in heavy pines, on a heavily traveled road with CG's left and right and a large body of water. From there the road heads upward to Logan Pass and becomes Going to the Sun, climbing about 4000' in the process! Wonderful old style CCC road not designed for speed but for spectating and to enable the adventurous folk of the late 30's to drive over the pass.
Logan Pass Exhibit is a must do, and, if possible, the 4 mile hike across the snow field to Hidden Lake. Then it's downhill to St Mary, the road full of look outs and tunnels. From there it's a quick run up to Many Glacier Park and a slow drive in (good, accurate signs for bumps, rough road and recommended speeds in turns). The lodge at Lake Sherborn is travel magazine stuff, including a moose cow feeding in the shallows. Utilizing modern tracking techniques, I found two grizzly bears in a field alongside the road (you look for a BUNCH of parked cars and you'll find wildlife nearby).
After Glacier NP a short run up Rt 2 left me at the entrance to Many Glacier NP, beginning with another lovely lake. I really had no idea there was so much water involved! Much of it was fishable or boatable, all of it enjoyable. Many Glacier has the quintessential Lodge, complete with feeding moose cow and a pair of Grizzly's. I recall it as a more managable sized park, with many trails and scenes.
Exited the park and took 17 up to the boarder, where the customs agent instructed me (not asked, instructed) to remove my helmet and sunglasses (so he could get a better look at me as I answered the questions). No big. Then very open and rolling countryside back to the east and RT 2 north toward Calgary. Pretty much since turning north I had been watching a large thunderhead, and just south of Ft McLeod it became apparent I was going to see it much closer than I'd like. Gusty winds, wall of rain, lightning are all undesirable on a bike, so I retreated to a small farmhouse I'd seen 2 miles back and asked the owner, who had just stored his cars in the barn against possible hail, if I could put my bike under one of his cab-over trailers. He was very friendly and sent me in back to a cow shed or stable, where I waited 45 minutes or so with the rafters shaking and dirt blowing up but little rain. Finally it all stopped and cleared enough to proceed, and when I stopped at the house to say thanks they said Lethbridge (just east) had gotten hail and damaging winds and several lightning strikes. Thanks!
Continued along Rt 2, noting many campgrounds and a few motels, until I needed gas - right across from the Lazy J Motel. It was late, I was tired, there was still rain ahead, and I decided I was within striking distance for Calgary tomorrow, so I threw in the towel. Michael, the clerk, was interested in the trip, and gave me a discount on the 75$(!) room. I pulled the bike in under the eaves and took off all but the tank panniers before walking next door to the pizza shop. The girls were all a-giggle when I ordered a "pie". Again cell phone coverage was available, so contact was made with all the folks at home.
Sitting in my room eating, I heard a muffled comment about BMW's, but by the time I got to the door whomever it was was gone - with one of my gloves out of the pannier! They'd also knocked over many of the potted decorative plants at the motel. Maybe proximity to a pizza shop/bar wasn't so good after all. Found the glove at the far end of the motel, took all of it into the room for the night.
Finally tapped out at 1130, pretty late for this traveler.
Slept better and longer than anticipated. 50degrees and no banging, no cars. Was up and out by 0800, stopping by the Ranger station for information before the end run to the south of the park. East Glacier is a small town, lots of Indian references, and a beaut of an old style lodge. Rt 2 less dramatic than expected from maps.google, but a pleasant, scenic high speed transit to West Glacier. Not much there either, just a motel, convenience store and train station. Re entering the park you are at a low (3000') elevation, in heavy pines, on a heavily traveled road with CG's left and right and a large body of water. From there the road heads upward to Logan Pass and becomes Going to the Sun, climbing about 4000' in the process! Wonderful old style CCC road not designed for speed but for spectating and to enable the adventurous folk of the late 30's to drive over the pass.
Logan Pass Exhibit is a must do, and, if possible, the 4 mile hike across the snow field to Hidden Lake. Then it's downhill to St Mary, the road full of look outs and tunnels. From there it's a quick run up to Many Glacier Park and a slow drive in (good, accurate signs for bumps, rough road and recommended speeds in turns). The lodge at Lake Sherborn is travel magazine stuff, including a moose cow feeding in the shallows. Utilizing modern tracking techniques, I found two grizzly bears in a field alongside the road (you look for a BUNCH of parked cars and you'll find wildlife nearby).
After Glacier NP a short run up Rt 2 left me at the entrance to Many Glacier NP, beginning with another lovely lake. I really had no idea there was so much water involved! Much of it was fishable or boatable, all of it enjoyable. Many Glacier has the quintessential Lodge, complete with feeding moose cow and a pair of Grizzly's. I recall it as a more managable sized park, with many trails and scenes.
Exited the park and took 17 up to the boarder, where the customs agent instructed me (not asked, instructed) to remove my helmet and sunglasses (so he could get a better look at me as I answered the questions). No big. Then very open and rolling countryside back to the east and RT 2 north toward Calgary. Pretty much since turning north I had been watching a large thunderhead, and just south of Ft McLeod it became apparent I was going to see it much closer than I'd like. Gusty winds, wall of rain, lightning are all undesirable on a bike, so I retreated to a small farmhouse I'd seen 2 miles back and asked the owner, who had just stored his cars in the barn against possible hail, if I could put my bike under one of his cab-over trailers. He was very friendly and sent me in back to a cow shed or stable, where I waited 45 minutes or so with the rafters shaking and dirt blowing up but little rain. Finally it all stopped and cleared enough to proceed, and when I stopped at the house to say thanks they said Lethbridge (just east) had gotten hail and damaging winds and several lightning strikes. Thanks!
Continued along Rt 2, noting many campgrounds and a few motels, until I needed gas - right across from the Lazy J Motel. It was late, I was tired, there was still rain ahead, and I decided I was within striking distance for Calgary tomorrow, so I threw in the towel. Michael, the clerk, was interested in the trip, and gave me a discount on the 75$(!) room. I pulled the bike in under the eaves and took off all but the tank panniers before walking next door to the pizza shop. The girls were all a-giggle when I ordered a "pie". Again cell phone coverage was available, so contact was made with all the folks at home.
Sitting in my room eating, I heard a muffled comment about BMW's, but by the time I got to the door whomever it was was gone - with one of my gloves out of the pannier! They'd also knocked over many of the potted decorative plants at the motel. Maybe proximity to a pizza shop/bar wasn't so good after all. Found the glove at the far end of the motel, took all of it into the room for the night.
Finally tapped out at 1130, pretty late for this traveler.
posted by Randy Masters at 6:01 AM
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