26Feb09
Jumpy legs all night - was it the walk? Took 2 Aleve to help with that and finally lost the headache and had a good night's sleep. Up at 0630 and cabbed (4$) back to Wild Riders. Thornston was there. Younger than Thomas, and looking a little tired. The bike, a Honda 250cc Tornado was a fair looking, not too tired rental in Yellow. We checked the weather and the map and decided I could do my planned route up to Arenal Volcano if I didn't mind a little wet and wouldn't be too disappointed if I couldn't see the summit. Good thing we checked, as some of the planned route had been closed due to mudslide from an earthquake!
Back out Ruta Una past the airport to San Ramon, where I stopped to check the tires (habit). Rear was extremely low, maybe set up for off-roading. I put 30psi in both and it held for the remainder of the trip. What wasn't holding was the rear brake. They'd just worked on it and replaced the pads, but I couldn't get any bite no matter how hard I applied them, just a little drag. Good thing I always use front and rear together!
The road now headed up and north. This is how navigation is done. Where are you going? Ah, take this road to the sign for San Ramon, that road towards Tigre and San Isdro, watch for the turn off for La Fortuna and you cannot miss it! The hostel is 3km out of town. No route numbers, few mileages - only landmarks and nearby towns. Climbing into the mountains and into the clouds visibility went to less than 3 car lengths and the Frogg Toggs came out to keep out the mist and add a touch of warmpth. Worked well on both accounts. I cannot tell you about the vistas, as they were mostly the guts of cumulus, but the roads were relatively good, and the vegetation on either side was something out of Tarzan in the Jungle. Dense and deep and lush. Truely Cloud Forrests more than Rain Forrests. Caution in driving was the word, as I did not want to test my USMedical insurance policy here in Central America. The drivers were pretty cautions as well, in HUGE school bus and tour bus's. If, however, there was an opening, or opportunity to pass, it was fair game and whomever got there first made the most of it. It wasn't until later on that I made use of the diminutive size of the scooter.
La Fortuna reminds me of a Colorado Ski town in summer - lots of kayaks and bikes, building (or demolition?), and restaurants. Lots of gravel/dirt roads as well. The main plaza or park is adjoining the Church, which is common. From what the cab driver told me it is a well established custom that allows communities to have social gatherings after religious services. Good idea! Sort of a physical FaceBook.
My reservations were at Jardines Arenal, which, after some poking about, was 3km away from the Volcano. It is a lovely place, big rooms, nice airey restaurant, beautiful gardens and flower, but there was not the 'buzz' or population for which I was hoping. It was also 50$ for which I got 2 double beds and a private bath.
Having established a base I rode back into town for lunch at Bugy's Burger where I met James, a Canadian on a 60 day bicycle ride through Central America. He's been all over and looked like he had the cardiovascular fitness to prove it. We discussed staying in contact, the loneliness of the road as well as the impromptu friendships, and then I headed toward Laguna Arenal per my plan.
The photos don't do it justice, and, sadly, neither can my words. It is a moist, dense, verdant place where Nature is constantly trying to recover what man has scraped away, forcing armies of machete and weed-eater weilding workers to cut back the grasses and vines.
Approaching the lake I took the first dirt road between volcano and lake and attempted to follow the souther shore. I was blocked at Rio Chuito, where only a seasoned miner/rancher on horseback dared cross - that with water up to his knees!
On the way back I met Tom coming out of the jungle with a backpack. I passed him a hard candy and learned he was US born, CR raised, educated in Argentina, an entrepreneur in Uraguay, and living in retirement from the proceeds of selling that business. Money about gone he was taking a week to plan his next evolution - all at the age of 21!
Back through La Fortuna and a nice dinner of rice and shrimp at one of the open air restaurants along the way, then back to Hostel and bed.