Fallout

I was going to call this entry "Lunch" and start off with "That's what I had After Math, Lunch. Get it? AFTERMATH?". But it thought that'd be a bit too obtuse.

The flight back from Manchester UK to Chicago US was just fine. Lots of fidgeting in the seat, moving feet and legs in search of comfort, and occasional dozing under (say it with me now) eye-patch and ear plugs. I bought my backpack and kit over in a duffel, which I then discarded, but for the trip back simply bound it all together with the 'emergency' 20 feet of parachute cord I'd carried. Made a fairly tidy little bundle and did hold both hiking poles in tight and make a nice hand hold for the bag smashers, ah, baggage loaders.

Clearing US Customs in ORD was interesting. The form specifically asks if you've been to a farm or pasture and they announced on loudspeaker to contact the agricultural inspector if you had been. They are rightfully concerned about bringing a bad disease back, like hoof and mouth (foot and mouth), and want to clean your hiking shoes with chlorine; which they did. What they did not do, and I didn't take the time to point it out as I had a flight to catch, for crying out loud, was clean the bottoms of my hiking pole baskets, nor the ground cloth for my tent! Merde!I believe the French say.

I did make my flight, and so did my bag, in time to sit through a tornado warning out on the runway holdshort area. HEAVY winds and HEAVY rains. Major damage reported in the ORD area. The delay put my return journey into the 12 hour range, and I would gladly have gone back to my sister's home, but they were without power, many trees toppled, and besides they'd just returned from a cruise and I'd have to sit through all their photos and look at their tans.
When I got home, this is what was left of my feet.


Some of this is 'normal' post walk swelling. My hiking friends tell me that it is fairly common to have some swelling when you go from 15miles a day to 0. The fluids just don't know what to do right away. My swelling was aggravated by the sprains and pains and 12hour planes (ooooh a rhyme!). I did go to the podiatrist later and found that what I'd feared was a stress fracture was rather tendinitis on the top of my right foot. The major tendon down to your big toe is the one that lifts your forefoot up when you walk, but as you grow tired (after, say, 16 and 20 miles days), the other four little tendons try to help out, get inflamed and then rub against the bottom of your shoe tongue under the laces, which then feel like piano wire chaffing the tendon sheath. Wasn't going to improve the more I walked, obviously, so a pretty good idea to knock it off. 10 day steroid pack and I'm ready for the home run record, I mean, I'll be good a new.

Logistically and Planning wise the trip went brilliantly. I didn't loose anything, my accommodations were as planned, food was on track. Spending, as usual, was a little more than expected. So here are some points I jotted down 'for next time':

Good hi-top Gortex or waterproof boots
Non-zippered Gaiters
Pack Hydrator Bladder is good - but take a small waterbottle for making tea/coffee on the trail
Stop every 60 to 90 minutes for a rest, and a dedicated lunch period
Replenish calories along the way with Cliff bars (or other)
Do at least one 20-mile day per week in the month before the trip
Consider baggage porter service, at least through the Lake District - until you get your legs
Be flexible on which direction, how long and how far you walk in order to take advantage of good weather, new acquaintances, lovely towns.
Plan on 20L a day. 15 just won't cut it with 5L camping, 5L lunch, 10L dinner&beer, incidentals
ALWAYS take advantage of an available shower - before bed and in the morning too; you ever know when the next one will be.
GET GOOD 1:25,000 charts and LEARN AND PRACTICE ORIENTEERING
A GPS can be a great comfort - if the points are plotted
Use a hanging map case for the charts - looks dorky, but saves time while walking
Practice changing into/outof waterproofs and LS shirts - save time walking
Learn foot care - how to clip toenails, wrap a sprain, care for blisters
Shave your ankles, just in case you have to wrap them in tape
Change $ to L at a bank - the airport exchange rate is terrible and they still take a bite
Don't plan on recharging anything
Take some 'business' cards with email, maybe a photo, etc, to give to trail friends
Nice, soft, comfy sandals or croc's are a Godsend after 10 hours on the trail.

Sheep. Sheep Shit. Sheep pens. Sheep folds. Sheep flocks.

Stones. Rocks. Pebbles. Stone walls. Stone Houses. Stone Ruins. Stone Circles. Stone Buildings. Stone Bridges. Stone Bridleways.

Mist. Drizzle. Rain. Fog. Cloud. Moisture. Condensation. Humidity.

Old. Really Old. Really, Really, Old. Classic. Vintage. Antique. Dust.

"What should I do with this rock?"
"Ah, just put it over there, next to the others"


Someone (CLT) has already asked me if I'll do it again.
Rather like gazing into your wife's eyes and asking if she wants another baby - as they cut the umbilical cord.





Maybe later.

22/08/07 Call it "Coast to Kirkby Stephen"

It was a tough call, but I've decided to bag it and go home.
Reasons to continue: 1) said I would 2)weather to be nicer for the next few days 3) free ride from RHB to Whitby.
Reasons to stop: 1) Feet - blisters and arch 2) knees 3) ankle 4) 20 (+) mile day about did me in and there are more ahead 5) not getting easier 6) Big Bad Boggs ahead (and I hate boggs) 7) saves $ 8) My kit and I are about as clean as we're ever going to be 9) there's a train station just south of town.

So I took a slow start today, visited with the cyclists more and gave away food and fuel. I should have left the tent and bag at the campsite and light footed it through town, but I packed it all out and went for a nice stroll through K.S.
That's something that, on the whole, this time-table thing has denied me and I would advise against - hurrying through these towns. Grasmere for example begged a full day, or at least an unhurried (unlimping) afternoon's exploration. Granted, given that Luke trained AN ENTIRE YEAR for the hike and still had his pack shipped on, I could have been better prepared physically, but i think viewing this as a 14day (or less) challenge is a mistake. Far better to wait a day and cross the Lake District in the clear than press on over the tops with nil visibility! Like I did.

Kirkby Stephen has many interesting sights and sites, and (like so much else here) is a photographers dream - in good light. I was cursed by my father with a compulsive need to document by photograph, and by my photographer friend, Jeff B, to be conscious/critical of the light.

After my stroll I once again headed south out of town the "one mile or so" to the train station. "Or so" was about 1/2 mile and the only part that wasn't uphill. Right foot arch still not happy with road walking (reason 10 - more road walking ahead in the eastern part). The train station is a beautiful restoration, full of flowers and stonework. I stood at the signpost and deciphered the sched , deciding to wait for the 1245 to Leeds, and when I turned around I saw LUKE!! Great Happiness. He had finished his planned 1/2 Coast to Coast yesterday, taxiied back to K.S. this morning and set up in the same campsite I'd just vacated, and was scouting out the train station/sked for his return home tomorrow. We chatted and discussed and he waited out the train's departure to wave goodbye. A gesture I didn't fully appreciate until it was happening.
A gentleman and adventurer.

So, with a credit card one can buy a 30L ticket to MAN and I'm off again through the UK countryside - at a much greater rate than previously. Change in Leeds (quick now) to MAN Intl, where I apply for refund of my Whitby-MAN ticket for the 30th (don't bother prebooking - there'll be room), through the airport to Terminal 3 and the American Airlines Counter which is......closed. Well, the last flight is at 1050AM and its 1630(4:30)PM.

So, dinner, a expensive internet session to lesson the shock of walking through the door unannounced, a book for the wee-hours (Bill Bryson's "Notes from a Small Island", what else?), and a hopefully unobtrusive spot 'till morning


The train ride to MAN.
Waiting out the evening, night, morning.
We have lift off and everything's A-OK.
2 of the 3 bicyclists and the 2 Norton mates. Earlier the younger lads had expressed to me concern as to how to approach the older blokes. They felt there'd be some commonality with 2 wheels and all, but weren't sure how they'd be accepted. Well, it turns out.

Everywhere they can, they grow flowers

21/08/07 Shap to Kirkby Stephen

Just so you know how much work it was keeping this journal........

Pubs in England are not like bars in the US. They are a real social place - children, dogs, even women, are welcomed. This one in Kirkby Stephen had a nice (real) fire in the fireplace, a bartender (pub-keeper?) who was eager to please, and good filling food at reasonable prices.

And beers/liquor. There was that as well.....

At the K.S. Peninne View Caravan Campsite were a couple of 1960's vintage Norton motorcycles on their way to a do at the Isle of Mann (yes, just off St Bees).

Tired though I was, the architecture was still too wonderful to pass up a snap.

Look lovely. Downhill, flat surface and all. BUT I'm a couple miles off course and this flat stuff is killing my foot.

For a few moments the sun shone brightly and the moor sparkled. I guess this rock was too big to make into a wall......

A bit out of order, this was the friendly bartender in Shap pulling me a "Wainwright", the namesake beer of my trek.

My lodging at Shap.

21 miles. That's it. 21 miles. I'm done.

It took just under 10 hours, and though I got up at 0700 I didn't get off until 0900, so that means I quit walking about 1900hrs. Jeeze. I had coffee and peaches and granola, and since I'd let my kit get out of control in the tent there was a lot of packing to be done. Two girls in their late teens, early twenties who where hiking the c-2-c on their own were calling it a day from here due to Achilles problems. the Chaney's were going 1/2 day and moving slowly.

At first all was well, but towards the end, near Smardale, I wound up well north of course by Ginsdale Creeking and had to road walk the last 4 miles. Didn't make a horrid mistake by trying to cross a train bridge, but I thought about it longer than I should have. I was pretty brain dead and having trouble orienting the map and doing simple time/speed/distance calculations. The absolute end.

Walking though Kirkby Stephen was killer. The Youth Hostel was open and a lovely old old church, but the smell of mildew and mold drove me away. Also the lack of positive 'buzz'. Peninne View Campsite is basically a KOA, but right across the street is a nice pub. The facilities were in good shape, and the grounds were dry and level. What more could you ask?

I threw down my tent near 3 bicyclists who were riding from Landsend to the south to John O'Groats to the north (the length of the UK), and near 2 vintage Norton motorcycles on route to Isle of Mann. For dinner the cyclists recommended the Cumbria sausage in mashed potatoes on pie crust and a pint of Guiness. Brilliant!

Before dinner, though, I did a little housekeeping, gathering all my clothes and putting them in the wash while I took a looooong hot shower and examined my ankles/feet a little more. I also washed the mud out of my gaiter zippers. Stupid idea, zippers on the back of gaiters - the mud clogs them up, they're in an inaccessible place, and when they jam you cannot take them off!

So. Tomorrow is a new day, on the 1/2 way point at Keld. Supposed to boggy in the best of times ( remember, this has been a summer of flooding ). I'll just have to see how my feet feel. Couple new blisters, a toenail, and the arch issue still.

20/08/07 Patterdale to Shap

Lunch, the breakfast of champions. This is actually the 2/3'rds point (again, reverse photo order).

Coming down off Kidsty Pike. Treacherous, steep, long. Of course there were older hikers, women and families doing it too.
Hero shot - Kidsty Pike.
"Oh yew'll take the HIGH road and I'll take the low road". No wonder the Roman soldiers were so fierce in battle - they were still pissed at having to hike up THIS road!
Leaving Patterdale for Shap.

Yes, 16 miles is a long way; even broken into 1/3rds. 1st up and over. 2nd lakeside. 3rd crossing fields and roads.

Awoke at 0700 to children playing (how nice), peeked out and saw the clouds covering the hilltops and hanging low. Eyepatch back on.

Suddenly it's 0815 and I need to get going! I did brew a cup of coffee and eat a Cliffbar (while I'm here - the Cliff Walnut/Oatmeal/Raisin is wonderful!) while I packed up. Metholated spirits STINK and the pepsi-can stove doesn't do well on it. My trio next door were very nice and helpful after all, saving me 3/4 mile roundabout to the trail start.

First it was up to Angletarn Peak and Angle Tarn. Not an arduous climb, but steady. Kept taking photos and even stopped to bury a cache for CLT, my friend and real adventurer from Hong Kong who is planning the same hike next year. Along the ridge to the Knott and Kidsty Pike I hooked up with a family of 4 - including a 10yr old daughter and 14 yr old son who were likewise coast-to-coasting. We met at the High Street junction - High Street being a road built by the Romans so their soldiers could cross the Lake District while conquering Britain. Anyway, the family put me on the right path to Kidsty Pike (peak) and we took photographs of one another.

Heading down was murder - toes jammed into the toe-box of my shoes, slipping, extending my knee, etc, and a long - long way. Started bonking on energy along the way so planned a lunch at the end of the 2nd 1/3rd (after the lakeside walk).

Haweswater Lake was not like Ennerdale. More vegetation and narrow path with lots of rises and falls. Made good time, though. I can feel some foot work will be needed tonight, little toes need wrapped, and the top of my right foot has bad feeling - like the laces are way too tight an the knot is under the shoe tongue instead of on top. Hurts more on level tarmac than going downhill or up (which is odd, because everything else hurt more on the hills!)

Haweswater Dam looks like something from 633 Squadron - Dam busters, when the RAF practiced skip bombing in WWII. After Burnbanks there was some vagueness to the rout, and I missed Shap Abby and added another bit to the trip. Arriving in Shap I had a pleasant surprise: the Chancey Family, who'd had a tough time from Borrowdale to Grasmere (as had I). Judith fell in a stream and bruised her knee, and Jack, the youngest, got a great whack to the face very near the eye from a returning gate. Then after dinner the Ellis family came through (from High Street). Ian even offered to pick me up from Robin Hood's Bay and transport me to the train station at Whitby on my final day.

Tomorrow is 21 miles.

21?

What was I thinking?

19/08/07 Grasmere to Patterdale

Ok, reverse order photos! This is the Stile Farm Campsite.

Dapper, really dapper.
Care for some chocolate or tea?
A Foggy night, in London Town.....
"My head is too big and my arms are too short"

Not a great sleep - mattress too soft and mildewed, room-mates in/out, too warm at 70degrees. Ah, for my sweet tent! But all was dry and comfortable. Finally packed up and ready to go about 0915 as the weather was supposed to improve later in the day. If it did it was only marginally, however there never was a full on rain, just varied between naught, mist, drizzle and spirits of sunlight now and again.

Three men I'd unknowingly followed in had about 1/2 hour start on me, and, I think, took the first alternate offered to the north of Great Tongue. I reached the false summit and thought i was looking at Grisedale Tarn (a 4acre lake) - in fact it was just a bog between peak lines. Such was the visibility over the top in the clouds, again. Wind and clouds make the hike harder, and I backtracked once before deciding I was still correct and just needed to press on. Finally I had descended enough and the cloud thinned out enough to see the actual tarn, confirming my course. I, naturally, began to bellow what I know of "A Foggy Night, in London Town" at the top of my lungs.

at the northern end of the tarn were a father and his beautiful daughter, brewing a cup of tea and noshing on biscuits whilst the dog scattered sheep and fish with equal abandon. They didn't think much of my singing.

Just down from the tarn i almost passed BrothersParting Rock (the locals have quite the thing for Wordsworth here). the rest of the way in, about 8km, was straight-forward, even a bit tedious. Amazing how hard tarmac feels on one's feet after a day on the trail.

Several families and couples were out picnicking in the 60degrees, 20mph wind, drizzley day; though all were taking shelter behind large rocks, using ledges and crannies as shelves for tea cups and stoves!

Grisdale Lake is a resort area just north of the trail, but Patterdale is just to the south and a nice place as well. An American works at the General Store there, and we had a nice chat. The White Lion Pub food was fair at best, I didn't care for their local brew, and there was apparently discord among the employees.

I''m getting used to this walking thing, and am pleased and amazed at how outdoorsie the Brits are - despite the rainy weather. 10L at the pub, 2L at the store. 5L camp.

Book lists tomorrow as a long day; climb early, then round the lake, then a long slog into town.

Stile Farm Campsite is a caravan camp and camp ground, so there are all types of campers: couples, singles, families young and old. Above me is a young family, trying to keep the kids out of the mud (good luck with that). To one side an angry couple - he's swearing at her and doing all the work (he says). In front of me a trio of possible revelers 2 males and 1 female that may or may not be the noisiest of the group on their return from the pub later. Ah, earplugs and eyepatch, come to me! It is also quite muddy from a busy and wet weekend, and not much level, non-boggy ground to be had. Still, the showers are free and hot and I'm not walking anymore today.

18/08/07 Barrowdale to Grasmere

A 'short' day with a single range in the middle to cross, but still....
Up early-ish after a good sleep. John and Sharon already packing, Luke not up just yet. The patter of heavy drizzle and comments from the camp custodian (5L please) put us all in our waterproofs straight on. I was first out, the rest planning to press on to Patterdale, about twice as far away. Nice easy warm up into Stonethwaite then across the bridge onto gravel. And up.
Today's path was, for the most part, easily discernible if not at all desirable. The constant drizzle intermittent rain had filled the trail into a small shallow running creek, and made the 'boggy bits' a muck of dark black soil/sheep droppings. Or you can vault from rock to rock and hope you neither miss (and plant foot to ankle in goo) or fall off and twist an ankle. Proper footwear and gaiters would let one plod on regardless. My Merrel's are low cut and not waterproof, so early on my socks and feet were sodden wet and filthy. Still, I tried to avoid the water and bogs, adding time and distance and sapping energy. the low clouds held their ground as i climbed into them, visibilities dropping as low as 1/4 mile at times. I learned to use map and compass more and the book less until I'm in town.



Just so you know, this isn't a "gimme" walk!
A bed and a place to store my 'stuff'.
The drying-room - much in demand this day. 100degrees plus and near 100% humidity. Oh, and a fragrance that had even the sheep turning away......

Even the Youth Hostels were 'quaint'.

Starting at 0800 I crossed Clinging Crag at 0950 and the bridge at Far Easedale Gill at 1220. in the interim I did a fair to good job holding the path, but this pulling the map out stopping is taking a time tool. I also hit a rock wrong and went down heavily on my left knee; bruising it and popping my right (I heard it go! now brother Hal and I will have even more in common). Once along the Gill it was a fair walk into Grasmere, where I missed the first hostel, but got a bed in the second for 19L, lunch at the co-op for 5L, wash and dry for 2L, dinner for 8L and mapcase and stove fuel for 10L. Ouch. Internet contact was 2L for 1/2hr to update the blog a little, Email friends en masse and find out I got NONE of my choices allowing a 31st Aug return to USA. So, I'm going to work hard to be back on the 30th.

touch wood.

Signs, signs, everywhere there's signs

definately not blocking the scenery! Signage on this walk was not what I expected. There was much more orienteering than I was prepared for as well. My guide book was too detailed, my maps not detailed enough (they were 1:50,000, I needed the ON 1:25,000 that John and Luke carried).
But they were beautiful when they were there!

17/08/07 Ennerdale Bridge to Barrowdale

While John and Sharon enjoyed a full breakfast (the best idea! start out with lots of energy and a full tummy) I had 1L coffee. Today went as expected, until it didn't. But that's the joy/pain of trekking. A little headache form the second pint last night was small price to pay for the comradre. Coffee and granola and I'm off walking by 0830. First it was road work to the edge of Ennerdale Water, then a lakeside path with goregeous views. If day 1 was Hitchcock, then this was Errol Flynn and Basil Rathbone! Good surface and fast pace. At the eastern end of the lake were 3 choices - alternate low, official, or hi. I first chose the official/hi to offer the hi option, but chickened out as I observed the clouds bumping into the hills. I maybe shouldn't have.

From EW to Black Sail Youth Hostel is a straight forward forrest road walk, and not much to tell. Black Sail is tremendous! Nearly at the head of River Liza (which feeds EW), it sits alone with unobstructed views. Would be an excellent place from which to base a couple of days walks and meet the hikers passing by. Louk, our Netherland friend, was a man set free - after his first day he sent on his pack and walked with only a raincoat and mapcase. And he walked FAST. At BSYH I snacked and chatted with a British couple who then shared a bread and cheese/cucumber sandwich. Kind, yes, but also that much less for them to carry. Then I started over the pass to Borrowdale and here is where it all went downhill. No, uphill. No, traverse. Ah, back across again and finally up and over as I lost the trail and made my own trying to join one I THOUHT I saw before I backtracked and got help. I added up to 4 miles of HARD walking to get where I should have been 2 hours previously. I also twisted my left ankle moderately in the process. Finally over the top of Grey Knot, I caught up with John and Sharon for the long, hard, treacherous track downhill to Slate Mine Visitor Center, where we also caught the Chaneys.

Footsore at this point, even the road walking into Barrowdale was painful. We passed through Seatoller and very nearly the Gillercombe Campsite en route Rostwaite. In fact we were slowly climbing a high stile when I looked over and saw the campsite - and Louk! He'd been here an hour, was all set up and brewing boullion. John and Sharon and I pitched near him, and gratefully accepted hot water for tea/coffee. I fixed backpacker's lasagna as I just couldn't do the 10 minute walk to Rosthwaite to look for pub and food. Cheaper that way as well, what with the extra pint last night, the 5L to camp and 50P for a shower (WELL worth it). I planned to nosh another power bar, shower and then sleep. Planned on 14 miles, probably did closer to 16 or 18.

Beautiful stonework in the wall at Black Sail Hostel.
My benifactors at BSH
Quite a difference walking here.

#1 Temperature: Been 55 at night running to 65 in the day. Makes walking feasible and fun. It takes a nice brisk walk to stay warm.

#2 Trails are not so much trails in the US sense with markers and arrows and such, but rather paths in a general direction which seem to cross everywhere! As long as you know where you are heading you just walk the path pointing nearest to it!

Louk just poked his head in - he cannot charge his camera battery and so is out of luck tomorrow. Double A's working nicely, thanks, and I can buy them at any village store. Speaking of what works.... so far I have been unable to obtain Denatured alcohol, known here as metholated spirits, so my stove is out of comission. Louk and John have kindly donated hot water, and I suspect a pub would too for a nominal fee. The Tent is OK, but, being single walled, somewhat condensation prone in cool weather. As Jeff B noted, it'd be nice to have the tent and foot print on the outside of the pack for quick set up and drier take-down. need to get the z-rest sleeping pad inside somehow. Sleeping bag is cool-cold. Definately could use the silk liner, especially when it's windy, as tent 'breathes' and the moving air sucks the warmth out of the bag. Eye-patch and ear plugs mandatory, so maybe a dedicated (loud) mini-alarm? Haven't needed a flashlight, yet, nor medical kit (may tape ankle tomorrow). Have worn 1 pr smart sox, 1 pr u/w (will change tonight, thanks, after a really hot 50p shower), zip off pants w/ legs, T-shirt and LS thermal shirt. Hiking I vary the T-shirt, LS shirt and Frogg Togg top. At night I add fleece vest. So far thats been ok. Hat is good, sunglasses not necessary (yet). Rain gear top has been in/out a lot and the top compartment location works well. Croc's are a little too big, so they're not great for long walking but OH SO COMFY at day' end. Thermo mug holds TP nickely on the trail and has helped transfer the hot water.
We had a very nice evening conversation. John and Sharon brought back a bottle of wine (and described their lamb shank dinner!).

John, Sharon and Louk!

16/08/07 St Bees To Ennerdale Bridge

Marching off this morning in the bright clean air I headed towards the beach and Bees Head, the beginning of the walk. Must've been on time, as another couple of hikers, man and woman (turned out to be John and Sharon Carlin) left their hotel right behind me.

Bees Head is remarkable, with the kind of cliffs that inspired Alfred Hitchcock's terror movies. It was also the longest time of the day's walk, as I took snap after snap. I think the idea of walking the first 5 miles around the Head and coming back by bus to your camp in St Bees (as suggested by the Stone House caretaker and followed by the Chaney family) on the day you arrive is a good one, as the light would be good (from the west) but walking it all in one day is important as well....

Breakfast was a hearty full English at 5L (L is for pounds), making a total of 8.50 for room and board. I was out about 0830. At one point after BH it looked like heavy rain coming, so I put on my Frogg Togg top and just as the rain was imminent a typical British red telephone booth turned up. I stepped inside as the first drops fell, waited out 5 minutes of heavy rain, and stepped back out to remove the top and continue on.

Found the Guidebook by Henry Stedman (British Walking Series) a little TOO detailed, as it covers a small distance per page and one needs a marching band music holder to keep it at eye level as one walks. Several pubs/restaurants were closed, but 3 Tuns Pub was open for lunch and strategically located at a turn in the walk. 5L bought a meat and potato pie and a pint.

Got a bit off track at Stanley Pond, where the walk just traverses a few fields, so I stopped and had a 'think', buried it, and pressed on. Found a roadway/bike path and switched from book to Harvey Map and compass walking through Moor Row and Cleator in quick succession. Crossing a dent and by Nanny catch Beck I also erred, but got back to the road into Ennerdale Bridge.

Continued into Ennerdale Bridge and set up camp - meeting the Chaney's again (they had reservations down the road another 5 mile but had stopped for dinner) and John and Sharon Carlin (the couple who started behind me) and a chap from the Netherlands named Louk who had only been speaking English 3 years!

What a road! Barely 1 1/2 car width, if that, with NO berm or side for the pedestrians. It did have a nice, high, safe public footpath paralleling, though, which was used and appreciated. Fox & Hound at EB was the first, and , to our knowledge, only game in town, so soon there were 3 tents in the garden. We had a merry time of it (just a little too merry), enjoying dinner and beers.

14-15/08/08 Chicago to Manchester UK to St Bees

Some have been kind enough to say I'm a good writer. I appreciate that, but here, in this
community on the coast of England, words fail me enitrely. Everything from the temperature to the sea breeze to the vivid evening colors, the smell of antiquity, horses, flowers and grass, the sounds of birds, motors, dogs and horses overwhelm my senses. If that weren't enough the age of everything, the orderliness of everything, the feeling that all is as it should be, where it should be fill me with tranquility/anticipation. Can it get any better?
-'Oh wait 'till Ennerdale' says one 'Ah, Scottland puts the c2c to shame', says another. It is simply incredible to realize that a scant 48 hours ago I was in the 104 heat in dfw, 24 hours in the bustle of ord, and now I'm camped in the garden of a centuries old house, and if that weren't weird enough, when I pitched my tent and intruduced myself to the family already camping here, they said ' Oh, we knew you'd be here. we read your blog!" It truly is a small, small world. I apologize if I step on toes or take your seat!
The flight went as flight do. First a delay for equipment, then the battle of boarding, take off and feeding, followed by hour upon hour of chasing rest and sleep. I did get some rest, having learned that while sleep is ideal, just relaxing and resting will fill in the momentary lapses enough to fuel the next day's work

Manchester is a tunnel-like airport with a hallway instead of expansive lobbies, but fairly easily navigated. The train station is attached, and it was easy to obtain and then modify my ticket to St Bees. The key is deparutre/destination = track. I connected in Preston to Carlisle, where I had an hour to walk about. I had a meat and potatoe pie and then remembered (too late) that I needed alcohol for my stove. Couldn't find any, so new plan is to carry a gaz stove head for the cannister stuff 'just in case'. Back on the train for the costal journey, that was, in itself, worth the trip over. St Bees is all the guidebooks say and more, and while I am loathe to leave I cannot wait to do so, to be walking thorough these green, moist, cool, welcoming fells.

Dinner at the Manor house (the Queen Anne having been closed by the brewery - such is the fate of a 'closed' or company pub)) was tuna sandwich and chips (fries) and a local draught beer. Two local chaps, Spike and Morton, from the nuke plant to the south, were great company - harassing the barmaid and each other, and I had to turn down a pint and endure further (justified) name calling for the sake of rest.

It can't get better than this!